Material
Laser Engraving Anodized aluminum blanks: Diode Settings by Machine
The easiest metal for a diode: the laser removes the dyed anodized layer and leaves a crisp light mark. Tags, cards, tools.
How a diode laser handles anodized aluminum blanks
Anodizing is a hard, dyed oxide layer on aluminium. The laser bleaches or removes it where it hits, giving a white or light grey mark against the colour. It is marking, not engraving: there is no depth, but the result is sharp and durable. Black anodized blanks give the strongest contrast.
Before you start
- Wipe the blank clean; fingerprints can show
- Use a jig for batches of tags or cards
- Focus precisely: fine text blurs with small focus errors
Starting points, not gospel. Rows marked “starting point” come from manufacturer tables and community results. Run a small power/speed test grid on your own sheet before a real job — batch, humidity and focus all shift the result.
| Module | Job | Thickness | Power | Speed | Passes | LPI | Air | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10W | Mark | — | 70% | 3000 mm/min | 1 | 250 | — | Starting point |
| 20W | Mark | — | 50% | 3000 mm/min | 1 | 250 | — | Starting point |
| 22W | Mark | — | 50% | 3500 mm/min | 1 | 250 | — | Starting point |
Tips
- Marking needs just enough power to clear the layer; too much blurs small text
- Fine line interval for solid fills
- Test on the back of one blank first
Frequently asked questions
Does anodized aluminium need a marking spray?
No. The anodized layer itself takes the mark. Marking spray is for bare metal.
Why is my mark grey instead of white?
Power or line spacing is too low for a full clear, or the anodizing is thick. Raise power slightly or tighten the interval and test again.